October 04, 2015

Learning LaContrie

Photo by Fe Pinheiro courtesy of LaContrie

Edwina de Charette de la Contrie's five-year-old label LaContrie captures the perfect balance between function and fashion through its luxuriously and laborously handcrafted leather pieces produced in limited quantities at its Parisian workshop. She once told the New York Times's T Magazine that "if it's not perfect, we don't sell it," and it is this pointed precedence on perfection that has perhaps made this young atelier synonymous to meaningful design and quality workmanship, not to mention the reason it has made fans among the likes of Ines de la Fressange, Jeanne Damas, Virgil Abloh and Courreges style director Lolita Jacobs. While it champions the art of craftsmanship advocated by seasoned brands such as Hermès and Bottega Veneta, the label is in no way inaccessible ⏤ its popular Rohan shoulder bag is available at the Colette store in rue Saint Honoré for $824, which is reasonable considering the amount of care and attention to detail Edwina and her artisans devote to each piece. Here, OFF DUTY chats with the French designer about bags, de-stressing and Paris.

You were previously the producer for TV show Paris Derniere before launching your label laContrie in 2011. Tell us about the key moment that led you to change the direction of your career.
I've always been passionate about bags and quality, but there was a time when I couldn't find a bag that suited me, so I decided to make my own. That is how I discovered the world of maronquinerie, after I tried making my own bag. I instantly fell in love with the process! I developed a "crush" on the job and this world, its gestures, materials, smells and everything it entailed.

Ines de la Fressange and Jeanne Damas are fans of LaContrie. How would you describe the LaContrie woman?
I would say they are sophisticated, sober and low-profile. She is unpredictable and she loves to mix and match.

If you could design one bag for anyone, past or present, for whom would it be?
I would have loved to make a bag for Mary Poppins!

We love your collaboration with Off-White. How did it come about and how's it like working with Virgil Abloh?
The inspiration comes from the world of photography. I had a bag called Sourdière, which is a piece inspired by a camera bag. I'm always in search of timeless bags that can be reinvented. I added the zip for a more contemporary look. Virgil loved my Carrousel bag and wanted our collection to have the same shape, so I proposed a model based on a binocular case. He visited me several times and we discussed our models and approaches, as well as the quality of materials we both liked. It was amazing working with Virgil and it really was a collaboration.

We noticed that you post a lot of travel photos on your Instagram. Is traveling something you enjoy and, if yes, where do you often go?
Oui, I love traveling because I love making new discoveries and meeting new people. New ideas and inspirations come when I go on holidays. I regularly travel to Portugal because it is close to France. Aside from having family there, I simply love its exoticness.

Speaking of travel, which LaContrie bag would you often bring with your on your travels?
I always take a Rohan with me because I can use it from day to night. It's very versatile.

Where do you usually find inspiration for your designs?
I have no place in particular but museums, sports and travel inspire me a lot. I cannot say that the ideas come to me via one particular thing but it just comes suddenly, comme flashes and clicks.

When you are not traveling nor working in your rue de la Sourdière workshop, where will we often find you in Paris?
I go to Colette for lunch and taste the daily creations of Wafaa! I also love Café Verlet in rue St Honoré or Japanese restaurant called Aki on rue Sainte-Anne. In the evening, I do not have any regulars, but I like the restaurant La Belle Epoque, as well as this bar called La Coquille on Coquillière street where the ambiance is special and the music is great! I love the owner François! I also love to go dancing at Le Pompon on Opera Avenue.

How would you usually end a long day of working at your workshop?
I always end my days by spending time with my daughter, who doesn't have to know or care about my problems. Of course, I love spending time with my friends to have fun. Laughter is the best medicine for stress, so I make it a point to have more than enough of it in my life.
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